RECALL - AIMS

Recall is the first and most important Dog-Game that a dog and handler can do together, as both of them can learn so much about their relationship with each other whilst having lots of fun together.  These deceptively simple exercises develop a stronger and deeper understanding between a dog and its handler, and they will have a profound and positive effect on any future training they may do together (see Our Dogs - Case Histories)

The dog learns -

  • That if it returns to its handler as quickly as possible it will be rewarded with something it wants (it's motivator).  The dog is always rewarded in the "handler's area", which is behind the two start/finish poles, and never in the lane (ie where the markings for the jumps and the 51ft/15.3m marker are).  The dog soon learns that the lane area is where it "works" and behind the poles is where it will be rewarded and played with.

  • Not to become stressed or overexcited while waiting to be released.  There are different ways of doing restrained recalls (which will be explained in Recall Starters) which helps dogs to cope with being held by their harness by someone who is not part of their family, and to overcome their anxiety to return to their handlers.

  • To understand what the handler wants it to do by trial and error -

    If it does the right thing it will always be rewarded with a motivator.

    If it gets it wrong (eg the dog does not return to the handler) the motivator will be withheld.  The handler will stand still and silent so that the dog has the opportunity to think through what has just happened without the handler distracting it.  It will then work out what it did that particular time and experiment by offering a different behaviour next time - most probably the correct one.   It should be noted that some dogs become distressed by the handler's silence and need the reassurance of the handler saying something such as "too bad" or "try again" as a cue for it to offer another behaviour.

    It is then given the opportunity to get the exercise right (and instantly rewarded) so that it does not become discouraged from trying to do the exercise again in the future.

  • To trust it's handler, as the handler consistently rewards the dog every time it does something correctly, and only withholds the reward when the dog gets it wrong.

  • To understand its handler's body language, and the various signals and verbal commands they use as cues for the Game to start and finish (see Dog's Dictionary).

  • That the training area, the trainer, and the equipment that it uses, pose no threat to the dog.  In fact, these triggers begin to have happy associations for the dog as they mean that it will soon be rewarded for doing the Game correctly.  You will soon find that your dog will become relaxed and confident when it enters the training area (and later the competition area).

  • To relax and be able to concentrate on what it is being taught (see stress).

  • To store what it has just learnt in its long-term memory because it is given the opportunity to relax after the short training session (this is called latent learning).   If a dog is given a variety of tasks to do, or the training session is too long, or it is distracted and becomes stressed, the dog will be unable to assimilate what it has just been taught and will not retain it in its long term memory.

  • To become accustomed to wearing a harness so that it can lean its body weight into the harness shoulder straps and adopt a racing start stance without having the painful and unpleasant choking sensation around its neck that would occur if it was held by its collar.

  • To be able to socialise and interact with other dogs while off the lead, once the training equipment and netting have been put away at the end of each training session.  This helps the dog build up happy and confident associations with these dogs ready for doing changeovers in the Gold stages of the Dog-Games later on.

On a lead, dogs are unable to socialise and greet each other in a relaxed and comfortable way.  They need the freedom of movement to decide for themselves how much personal space they and another dog needs to feel relaxed and unthreatened, and be able to chose the right moment to approach and greet the other dog.  Dogs cannot achieve this if their handler is influencing them through the lead and stands too close to another dog and handler.  Some dogs feel trapped by the situation and, because they cannot move away, have only one option left - to act aggressively towards the other dog.  The lead acts like an umbilical cord to the dog - the dog is aware of the human's fears and emotions, and gives the dog the impression that the handler will protect it from the other dog, or even provide it with back up in its aggressive attack by "barking" at the other dog as well (in fact the handler is shouting at their dog but it is too stressed to realise this).

Another disadvantage of being on a lead is that the dogs are unable to use their full range of body signals and behaviour to communicate with the other dog - particularly those who are pulling on the end of the lead.  Examples of this subtle communication between dogs are -

  • Approaching one another in wide curves and from the side - never in a direct line as this is a sign of aggressive behaviour.
  • Diffusing the situation and stress of the dog by sniffing the ground to show that they are unconcerned about the presence of the other dog.
  • Turning their eyes, heads or bodies away, as well as moving away from the other dog
  • Licking their lips
  • Yawning
  • Walking slowly or even freezing on the spot until the other dog feels more relaxed
  • Sitting or lying down
  • Adopting the play position

For further information about these and other canine signals (which are often called Calming signals) contact Sheila Harper Canine Education (formerly known as Scallywags). They stock books and videos on the subject and regularly give lectures on how to observe and recognise these fascinating canine signals, as well as the importance of walking a dog on a loose lead.

The handler learns -

  • The importance of providing their dog with comfortable and suitable training equipment for the game they are about to take part in (ie the harness), and how to put it on the dog correctly so that it does not impede the dog's movement.

  • Whether their dog becomes anxious or stressed when the dog is waiting to run back to the handler.  If this is the case, the handler and trainer should acknowledge this and help the dog by keeping the separation time between human and dog to an absolute minimum.

  • Not only what motivates their dog but themselves as well.

  • How to really play and interact with their dog so that it wants to try hard and please not only the handler but itself as well.  Dogs are very tuned-in to their handler's feelings and emotions and sense when they have the human's undivided attention and heartfelt praise, and when the humans are just "going through the motions" of rewarding the dog (see motivator).

  • To train the dog in very short sessions (either for a maximum of 2 minutes or a maximum of 5 repetitions of an exercise) before the dog becomes over excited.  Then take the dog away for a quiet time where it can either relax in the safety of its car or wander off for a quiet sniff and have time to think about what it has just learnt, without the distractions of the handler talking to it or the presence of other dogs nearby - this quiet thinking time is called latent learning.

  • That dogs are very good at reading human body language.   Many dogs are very responsive to even the slightest movement of their handler, and try to anticipate what will happen next - it often looks like the dog is mind reading!  Therefore, the handler learns to consistently control his own body movements (which could be seen as subtle signals by the dog) so that he does not mislead or distract the dog.

  • That they must be consistent with the commands and signals they give their dog, otherwise it will become confused about what it is supposed to do and will make mistakes (see Dog's Dictionary).

  • Their dog will be confused, stressed and unable to learn if they the handler cannot learn to communicate with their dog.

  • How important their tone of voice and relaxed body posture are when working with dogs.  Negative emotions (such as anxiety, stress, frustration, fear or nervousness) are easily transferred to dogs.  They become apprehensive and nervous, as they do not understand why their handlers are showing these emotions.  Many dogs misinterpret the situation and believe they are the cause for the handler's anxiety, and consequently they either refuse to do the exercise, run off, or become too stressed to continue the session.  On the other hand, if the handler shows positive emotions (such as confidence, relaxation, and is unfazed by what is going on around them) the dog also relaxes and feels confident of its surroundings and what it is doing.

Calmness + Confidence = Success

  • Never to train their dog when they are feeling negative emotions - the session will always end in failure.

  • That they should consistently reward their dog every time it is successful.

  • The importance of praising and rewarding the dog the instant it correctly FINISHES the exercise (not whilst it is still doing it).

  • To finish each short training session on a positive note - if the dog is unable to understand what you are trying to teach it, ask it to do something it is confident of doing instead (such as a sit, down etc).  Then go away and think of how you can train the dog taking smaller steps in the training programme so that it can succeed in the next session.

The Recall Game is such a simple but effective way of having fun with your dog in a positive and constructive way.  After all, one of the fundamental requirements of allowing a dog freedom off the lead is that it returns to its handler when called.  This Game helps the dog to associate running back to its handler will mean that it is given something it really enjoys - its motivator.  If this motivator is then used in other situations (such as when called into the house; out on walks etc) so that the dog is rewarded each time it returns, the dog will choose to come consistently back to its handler.

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